Men’s tailoring is all about construction of a jacket and somewhat in a pant. In a jacket layers are added to create a shell or bowl effect for the chest and strength to shape a collar to the neck shape of client. Suitstyler comes in all three chest constructions, using fusing. For full chests it’s key to add a under lapel dart and sometimes a deeper chest dart for full chested athletic men For fuller backs and more casual softer, light weight jackets, one can order casual style with fused fronts. This is acceptable for casual sport suits and sportjackets. Its wise fore dressier, harder cloth to match with full canvas, as all wool components actually meld better together with the pressing process. Full canvas can be recognized in a pinch. Use both hands to pinch the front and back of the front of the jacket. You will be able to separate and feel inner canvas ( three layers) . Where as on a half canvas only two layers.
Higher end brand cloth books are something you can get once you are confident you have a better client. “Bespoke cut and make” is much slower and painstaking to shape a good chest. Often retailer charge upwards of $3000 per suit. Here as well finer materials sell better when tried on. So having brand cloth samples are a plus to interest new clients to try you at least for the cloth.
The fact that most slacks will not last as long as a jacket is the common reason for fused jackets. As well when you get a fine cloth you need to offer 2 pair of slacks to double the life and value. Add a vest you have a enduring wardrobe cornerstone that takes the “whole nine yards”. 4 pieces as symbolized with 4 authentic working button holes on the sleeve cuff. In the old days even ready made suits like this with much heartier cloth, justifying great value.
Making the choice of long or short term takes money and good experience. Its a mistake to get a grey or blue classic suit with one slack without recognizing all the value is in the second slack. It might be wise to charge more and graciously include a second slack for your generous rapport. Just order the second slack after the first to assure measures. Its a choice many clients dont make as often men cannot plan a wardrobe. Knowing you as mentor will create deeper long term values. I think often short term thinking is fashion and they are likely to have made decisions about fashion as when they were young. Likely to be dressed by their mothers, or when young and impressionable, listening to girls. Private school boys have a different take on good tailoring . TD designers as well can support proliferation of this visual language or etiquette for entry of a group conversation. Well to do gentleman’s appreciation of who their tailor is, cannot hurt and in fact pays. A TD’s experience can vouch for that, when you say. “Thank you,!” I designed it to fit”. Then offer your Suitstyler card.
The term, “smart” is used so much in dressing. We might ask what’s the opposite of a smart dresser without being derogatory? Perhaps the opposite is someone who did not get up on the right side of bed.